Hola, queria empezar este tema para compartir setups de distintos autos y tambien para compartir unas palabras de Aristotelis acerca de este tema:
Este es el post original
[Tienes que estar registrado y conectado para ver este vínculo]"What @djkostas said is correct. The clicks in the setup menu sliders are just clicks , exactly as in real life, you turn a valve on the damper and a click is an adjustments.
Makes life easier for both engineers and pilots to remember a specific click number than some obscure NmS value or whatever, also because those values alone do not say much if you do not know the graph and high/slow speed variation of a number. So it's easier to just do some clicks away from the default value, check how the car reacts, check the telemetry if you know hot to read it but most importantly, believe in the clockwatch laptime reading. That is the ultimate measure.
That said, the theory that rebound values must be higher than bump values (usually 1:2 to 1:3) although still very used in road cars, is obsolete theory in race cars, especially modern downforce capable race cars. Usually, nowadays, race cars have it the other way around, much more stiff in in slow bump than slow rebound.
The thinking behind this, is that modern tyres can handle much better the load relative to grip and so it is always preferable to load more a tyre and keep the load more constant than to absorb a bump for example. Obviously this makes the car very rough through bumps and kerbs and also very bouncy, but who cares... laptimes is all that matters. Also with high downforce, what you always care is to get the tyres to the ground as fast as possible, hence the relatively low rebound values that permit the spring to extend again as fast as possible. The rebound values nowadays just try to limit to acceptable values the bouncing and that's all.
Things get quite complicated and post can become very long. I suggest you guys to google for modern race dampers bump to rebound ratios or some modern books on the matter. "
